May 2021 Natural Skincare Formulation, Soap and Candle Classes in New York City

Our hands-on workshops are back in session this month in New York City. Join us for a week of evening workshops in our natural skincare diploma course, Make Your Own Beauty & Skincare Diploma Course, NYC - May 17-21. Or choose to attend just one or more classes that align with what you would like to learn.

Classes begin May 17 and are held at 6-8:30 p.m. nightly in a private classroom inside Little Shop of Crafts, located at 711 Amsterdam Ave. in the Upper West Side of New York City. It is one block east of the 1, 2 and 3 trains at 96th and Broadway.

The following courses are running this session:

Make Your Own Beauty & Skincare Diploma Course, NYC - May 17-21

Natural Anti-Aging Skincare for the Face - May 17

Herbal Body Butters, Balms + Scrubs - May 18

Design Your Own Cold Process Soap Class - May 19

Designing Your Own Natural Wax Candles - May 20

How to Run a Successful Indie Beauty Brand - May 21

Learn to Formulate CBD Skincare Beauty Products - May 22

Classes are taught by Marla Bosworth. Marla has 23 years experience formulating plant-based, organic skincare products. In addition, Marla has more than 30 year experience in retail, market research and entrepreneurship.

Classes are held from 6-8:30 p.m. in the Upper West Side, one block from the 96th and Broadway station for the 1, 2 and 3 trains. There is also street and garage parking nearby.

These courses are perfect for entrepreneurs who own a business as well as for new entrepreneurs who are seeking training for their bath and beauty startup.

How Much Fragrance for My Soap, Ice Trick and Other Cold Process Soapmaking Tips

Let's dive into some questions I recently received via email regarding cold process soap making. I hope that you'll find them helpful. Do you have other questions? Feel free to leave a comment and I may choose yours as my next blog post!


Q: Do carrier oils and butters lend any fragrance to the soap?

A: Not enough to notice. The only exception that I've experienced is cocoa butter added at 15-20 percent. It results in a light cocoa scent. I find that most of my clients and students want to add essential oils to create a beautifully scented soap. (I no longer use synthetic, fragrance oils. I stopped using them five years ago when I began to have breathing issues around them.)


Q: Is it true that sodium lactate will speed up the saponification process? What's the cure time when using sodium lactate? Is the cure time based on the weight of the soap?

A: Sodium lactate won't speed up saponification. However, it will result in a harder bar. I recommend that you try sodium lactate at 1% of your oil weight. If you've never seen it, it's clear and looks similar to glycerin.

To use, simply stir into cooled lye water (under 130F). However, you may not want to use sodium lactate if you are reducing the water content in your soap. It can cause overheating and cracking, which is a complete bummer.

Also, if you plan to use any liquid with a high sugar content (juices, milk, etc.), I suggest that you try a small batch first to see if the sodium lactate will behave in the batch. It can cause overheating in milk and juice soaps.

Cure time for the soap will be standard, which is around four weeks depending on your formula. For example, if you make a castille soap (100% olive oil), then your bars may take six to eight weeks to cure.

Try using ice in your lye water to keep fumes at a minimum
and to help cool your lye water temperature quickly.

Q: We used ice in our water during the soap making class with you in New York City. Can you remind me of the ratio of ice to water? Does it matter how much? Should I assume the weight of the ice and water should equal the water liquids needed for that particular batch?

A: Great question! And I'm sure many soapmakers will appreciate this tip. Let me first explain that I use ice for two reasons: 1.) to help the lye water temperature drop faster and 2.) to keep the sodium fumes at a minimum, which your lungs will thank you for years down the road.

The maximum amount of ice I recommend is 70% of your required liquid. You'll just replace 70% of your liquid weight with ice, then add the rest in water. Sometimes students ask if ice weighs the same as water, and the answer is yes. And yes, you're right in the assumption that you're going for the total amount of water liquids needed for the batch. The higher the ice amount, the stronger the probability that some of your lye may not dissolve completely. So start with a 50:50 ice to water ratio and you won't run into any problems with the lye not dissolving.


Q: How do I determine how much fragrance to add to my soap batch? When do I add it?

A: You can either add your fragrance to your oils before you begin soaping or you can add them at trace (thickening of the soap batter). I recommend adding them at trace, especially if you aren't sure how they are going to behave once added. Add a small amount at a time. If you see your soap thickening quickly or turning into tiny chunks, stop and quickly pour into your mold. This can happen with floral essential oils and especially fragrance oils, since the latter is made up of different chemical components. We never know how fragrance oils are going to behave. So if you are new to soap making, stick to essential oils like lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and rosemary in the beginning and you'll have very little chance of something going wrong because of them.

The usage rate for essential oils in cold process soap is 0.5 - 1 oz. per pound of oils used in your formula. This doesn't include water. Just your oil weight (olive, shea butter, coconut, etc.) Always weigh your fragrance and rest of ingredients for accuracy as opposed to using measuring cups.

To determine the amount of essential oils/fragrance, take the weight of your formula oils in pounds and multiple by .5 ounces. For example:

3 lb. oil
x .5 oz fragrance
1.5 oz.


Q: Do I have to line my molds?

A: If you are using wood or cardboard, yes. Line it with freezer paper or plastic wrap. If you are using plastic molds, I suggest you use plastic wrap inside the mold for an easy release. However, if you are using silicone molds, you can forgo the plastic wrap.


Q: Can you remind me what the temperature of the lye water and oils need to be before I combine them? Does it matter about the temperature of the essential oil?

Honestly, I don't even check temperatures anymore. I now teach my students to feel the sides of the lye/water and oil containers and get a feel for the temperature of under 120F or 130F. If you are new to soap making, you might want to use a thermometer in the beginning. Under 120F is ideal, but if you are at 130 or even higher your soap will be fine. My favorite temperature is room temp, which is right around 68 degrees in my house this winter.

Thanks for reading. If you're in the New York City area this month, be sure to check out my upcoming workshops!

Alchemy of Cold Process Soapmaking - An Online and New York City Experience

Photo credit: Marla Bosworth
These are the hands of alchemists blending their cold process soaps
with wildcrafted botanicals and healing essential oil blends.

Last month in New York City I shared with students what I have been doing for a lifetime as an alchemist - blending nature with healing modalities. It began when I was a child in central Illinois when I would create infusions with botanicals found walking in the woods, forgaging in fields or in my parents' garden. Later in life when I created my botanical beauty company I began creating soaps in Massachusetts and captured the energy of the Atlantic ocean and Cape Cod in my bodycare line. Then I moved to Jackson Hole, Wyoming where shIe worked with the energy of wildlife, the Rocky Mountains and the plethora of botanicals growing throughout the Grand Tetons.

Customers would come into my Jackson Hole store and tell me how her products envoked memories of hiking on trails in Yellowstone or Grand Teton National Park. They would hold the soap - some knowing and others not - that the vibrational frequency in the soap brought memories and oftentimes emotional healing.

I've taken my knowledge of combining alchemy, higher consciousness and sacred geometry and created a new class for beginning and experienced soapmakers. This workshop is also intended for healers, lightworkers, massage therapists, yoga enthusiasts, and anyone interested in wildcrafting, alchemy, energy healing, sacred earth energies and cold process soapmaking.

Join me on March 24 in New York City for the next workshop. Check out the class here. Not able to travel to New York? Sign up for my new, upcoming online workshop here.


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Upcoming Natural and Organic, Hands-on Skincare Formulation Workshops in New York City

Our next series of natural and organic skincare formulation workshops in New York City will take place October 26-30, 2015. Choose to take classes individually or the entire week of Bath and Body University workshops.

Join cosmetic formulator Marla Bosworth for classes ranging from custom essential oil blending to a skincare formulator's business seminar. The full schedule is as follows:

Monday, October 26
Mastering the Art of Custom Essential Oil Blending

Tuesday, October 27
Organic Luxurious Body Scrubs and Bath Salts

Wednesday, October 28
Herbal Healing Body Butters, Salves and Balms

Thursday, October 29
Organic Cold Process Soapmaking

Friday, October 30
How to Run a Successful Bath and Body Business Seminar

These workshops fill up quickly and it is advised to sign up in advance. We post number of spots left in each workshop on our website. Workshops are held on the Upper West Side of Manhattan with easy access from all parts of New York, New Jersey and Connecticut.

Can't make this series of workshops? Join our Facebook page for upcoming announcements and be sure to sign up for our email newsletter.

Marla Bosworth has been teaching natural skincare formulating workshops along with running her skincare business, Back Porch Soap Company, for more than 17 years. She has 35 years retail experience and a strong background in market research and marketing.

Understanding Suggested Essential Oil & Fragrance Guidelines in Soap and Cosmetics

One question I get asked repeatedly is how to determine the safe amount of essential oil or fragrance to use when formulating soaps and cosmetics. I hope to shed some light on this subject. There are layers and layers of information on this subject, and I am merely peeling back the first layer in this blogpost.

There is not a simple answer such as 2% in leave-on skincare products and 5% in bar and liquid soaps. Why? Because there are essential oils that are known for skin sensitivity issues that need to be taken into account. So a  quick and easy answer is that we cannot assume that we can use up to 5% of one type of fragrance oil or essential oil as part of the scent component in our recipe or formula if it is known to cause sensitivity issues.

If we are using an essential oil such as cinnamon bark, for example, it is not recommended that we use it as the full amount of our fragrance component. There are voluntary guidelines for percentages in usage levels set in place by International Fragrance Association (IFRA), an industry organization which provides voluntary guidelines regarding the use of fragrance.  These are known in the industry as IFRA Application Guidelines.

A handful of industry essential oil and fragrance suppliers provide IFRA guidelines on their websites along with suggested usage rates in soap, cream, lotions, shampoos and any product that can be formulated using a fragrance. Call your supplier if they do not list recommendations to find out and tell them that you are asking because you want to make safe products for your customers.

There are three main reactions that can occur as a result from essential oils being applied to the skin:

• irritation
• sensitization
• photosensitization

Cinnamon bark essential oil, for example, has been on IFRA’s Restricted Essential Oils list along with expressed citrus oils (“expressed” is a method of essential oil distillation) such as bergamot, bitter orange, grapefruit, lemon and lime.

“Fragrance is the second most common cause of skin allergy, after nickel. However ‘fragrance’ is not a single substance; it is a term that encompasses thousands of chemicals and hundreds of essential oils.” Robert Tisserand, Essential Oil Safety Second Edition. Book link: http://roberttisserand.com/essential-oil-safety-book-second-edition/
 
Now, let’s back up and review the two types of fragrances we’re talking about so that any newcomers can follow this conversation. The first is essential oils, commonly referred to as EOs. Essential oils add fragrance to your product, as well as add therapeutic benefits to the body and mind. We can’t make therapeutic claims, but can make cosmetic or hygiene claims. So we can’t mention skin problems such as acne or psoriasis, but we can refer to essential oils being known to having properties such as antifungal, antimicrobial, as well as intended for oily skin, and so on.

Second, essential oils are different from man-made, synthetic fragrance oils, which are commonly referred to as FOs. If you choose to use fragrance oils, make sure they are skin safe. For example, you would not want to purchase a fragrance intended solely for candlemaking and use it in skincare products since it is not for use in leave-on or wash-off products.

Now that’s we’ve cleared the air (pun intended) about different types of fragrance, let’s get into guidelines about recommended usage rates. This is the percentage (not type of) essential oil or fragrance oil you’ll use in soaps and bath and body products.

                 

Typically, fragrance usage rates in leave-on products such as creams and lotions are lower than wash-off products (bar soap, liquid soap, etc.). More of a leave-on product remains on the skin versus a wash-off product, so the amount of fragrance should be lower. The average recommended usage rate of fragrance is one to five percent for any product sold or marketed to ages one and up. Again, we cannot assume one fragrance or another can be used up to 5% - we need to research to confirm information from the manufacturer or supplier. (Off Topic Tip: I never recommend any fragrance for newborn through 12 months of age. Their little bodies are so sensitive and have a hard time processing fragrance unlike adults.)

Any recommended percentage relates to the total weight of your recipe. For example, for a 100 oz. weight batch of cream, 1% dilution rate would equal 1 oz. or for 2% a total of 2 oz. of essential oil would be used (100 oz. x .01 = 1 oz. or 100 oz. x .02 = 2 oz.).

 

If our research shows that the essential oil (or fragrance oil) we wish to use has a suggested usage rate of 3%, but we would like to fragrance at 5%, then a solution would be to blend it with another oil.

If you are selling products to a healthy adult market (i.e., one that is not going through chemo, radiation nor sensitive to fragrances) most likely you’ll want to use a two to five percent usage rate. This is a range suggested for healthy adults and children older than 12 years of age. Again, research, to determine the safety levels of the fragrance you are using by familiarizing yourself with IFRA and asking your supplier for information.

If you're interested in studying the effects of essential oils in skincare and cosmetic products in detail, join me in a "live" 2-day seminar with Robert Tisserand on "Essential Oils in Skincare" held April 5-6 , 2014 in Santa Barbara, California and on August 23-24, 2014 in New York City.

What questions do you have regarding essential oils or fragrance oils in soap or cosmetics?

 

Inspiration & Optimism: Beauty Products Rock New York International Gift Show

I had such an inspiring full-day of walking and shopping this year’s January New York International Gift Fair (NYIGF) at the Javits Center in New York City. It was one of the busiest Sundays in the winter market that I have seen since the economy tanked in 2007. Not only was the traffic heavy, but order writing was brisk from observations and speaking with other entrepreneurs. This is great news. Confidence in spending shows up with retailers first, then retail sales should be brisk in stores this year. There were also very interesting new products (in personal care and throughout the show) as well as some new trends that I observed.

The first of two ExTracts aisles.

NYIGF typically features around 2,800 exhibiting companies and 35,000 attendees. Show representatives say that lines from more than 85 countries are represented. One section of the gift show, ExTracts, represents the personal care and beauty market. The lines that I am reviewing were found throughout NYIGF, including ExTracts.

Emerging Trends

• The marriage between food and personal care continues (feeding your skin). Packaging trends for beauty leaning towards kitchen/food (honey, milk in glass containers), which makes sense as the shift to cosmetics/foods takes place. Also showing up in interesting fragrance descriptions. Example “Bordeaux, Fig, & Vetiver”.
• Continued growth/interest in eco-friendly, sustainability and fair trade. Check out these recycled green wine bottles from Paddywax http://www.paddywax.com/Shop/Eco-Green
• The sustainability and fair trade section of the NYIGF had a great “vibe” and traffic/order writing appeared to be brisk.
• Inspirational labeling (see featured company are you? below)
• Bohemian theme was very popular in general gift sector
• Decorative/Interior Design labeling in personal care gift sector (damask, tapestry and colorful graphic designs)
• Decorative Lines (http://micheldesignworks.com/)
• Home fragrance explosion (More home fragrance lines than I’ve ever seen: approximately 125 total lines)
• Bright colors: fuchsia, orange, bright pinks, purple, offset by black
• Natural colors: green and amber bottles and jars/packaging
• Increase in minimalistic labeling
• World travel themes (maps and images of Paris, Rome, New York) and http://micheldesignworks.com/design-collections/paris.html and http://www.paddywax.com)
• Floral fragrances return big-time for Spring 2012
• Bees, honey and beeswax in personal care products
• Personalization/Monograms/Letters in Soaps
• Wax seals with stamps. http://www.ecoya.com.au/#/collection/metro and http://www.foundgoodsmarket.com
• Black packaging (example: http://www.ecoya.com.au/#/collection/diffuser)
• Small to large size companies partnering for long-term empowerment (charities and more)

Handcrafted Beauty Lines and New Product Introductions

Spotted this sign at NYIGF. It's the perfect reflection of the passion some of these small, handmade beauty company owners that I met today have for their businesses.

One of my favorite independent, handmade bath and body companies at the show was Lotus Love Beauty, a line based on “Accentuating Your Inner Beauty.”  Owner Jessica Gulati and her mom, two of the most passionate about their business and one of the friendliest business owners that I met at the show, are based in San Diego, California. Every dollar spent on their colorful bath and body line supports The Shanti Project, an initiative to bring positive change to the world.

Another interesting handcrafted line with an eco-friendly feel is Good Fortune (http://stores.goodfortunesoap.com/StoreFront.bok) . Company owner Jennifer Jack is a graphic designer  turned soapmaker. Based in Tennessee, she recently traveled to Haiti to teach soapmaking there. Her soaps are packaged with a fortune card (similar to a playing card). The company also has clever gift sets and also offers private labeling.

Julee Ireland (http://www.juleeireland.com) is a handmade, whimsical line based in Westlake Village, California. After being laid off from one of the largest home builders in the U.S., Julee launched a greeting card soap in her kitchen in 2009. An artist and designer, she created an array of greeting card soaps, soy candles, fragrances and bath and body products. Her patented greeting card soaps impressed me, and also apparently impressed some big-name retailers as well.

A completely different line, Cote Bastide (http://www.cotebastide.com), is the perfect reflection of a trend toward minimalism in personal care products packaging and design. Cote Bastide offers room sprays, shower gels, candles, sea salts packaged in a muslin bag and more. This European-inspired line was featured in the France Pavilion at NYIGF, one of several international pavilions.

Jessica Leale, president and founder of are you? (http://www.areyoudesigns.com) gave birth to a dream that she had for a business in 2008. Three years later, she launched her company with her first wholesale order. She debuted her company at NYIGF this month. Are you? is a line of inspirational and motivational products, including soy candles. For example, vanilla cinnamon pairs with “are you making a difference”; lemon basil pairs with “are you making memories?”; and vineyard fragrance pairs with “are you following your dreams?” Each of her candles has a soybean on top of the way to remind customers that it is made with pure soy wax. All scents are hand stamped on the letterpress label and each candle has a cotton paper hangtag attached by a 100% natural hemp cord. She offers hand stamped natural muslin gift bags. 

Greenleaf (http://greenleafgifts.com) unveiled two new fragrances at NYIGF, Island Sunset and Radiant Waters in its home fragrance collection. Greenleaf is owned by husband and wife team, Bob and Sylvia Caldwell. The company also introduced a new Sydney Aroma Décor Set, a clear glass aroma décor diffuser with a decorative top, diffuser oil, and stone and wick assembly. 

Candle company Votivo (http://www.votivo.com) introduced its newest fragrances Pink Mimosa and Breath of Lavender in its soy candles, reed diffusers, fragrance mist and travel tins. The company says Pink Mimosa is a complex blend of sweet strawberry and mandarin combined with white gardenia, wild honeysuckle and mimosa with base notes of vanilla rum, sandalwood and musk. Its Breath of Lavender combines lavender with amber, tonka and musk.

Another interesting small business is New Jersey-based B. Witching Bath Co (http://www.bwitchingbathco.com). Last summer, the company’s Organic Shaving Jelly was the winner in the NYIGF Natural/Organic Category. This particular product is made with 95% organic content, infused with organic aloe, cucumber, cranberry extracts, and kosher vegetable glycerin. Although I didn't find a new product announcement for this company, they are worth mentioning as they are picking up steam and loads of press.

Brooklyn was well represented at the NYIGF. Two independent soap companies, Soapwalla and Metropolis Soap, both exhibited at Extracts. Soapwalla, whose tagline is “Feed Your Skin”, was founded in 2009 by Rachel Winard. Her line includes a top-selling deodorant cream, body oils, face serum, bath soaking salts, body washes, lip balms and soap. Winard’s company won Summer 2011 NYIGF’s “Best New Products Award.” Check out her line at http://www.soapwallakitchen.com.

I stopped and chatted with Megan Finkelstein, founder of Metropolis Soap Company (http://www.MetropolisSoap.com). She launched her company in 2009 and introduced her new exfoliating body scrubs at the show. She raises the bar (no pun intended) on ingredients, as she uses 100% vegan, no synthetics or sulfates, and only sources from fair-trade companies. Her skin care line ranges from soaps, herbal spa soaks, lip creams and whipped shea. 

Another company, Anjolie Ayurveda (http://www.anjolienyc.com) introduced a line of aromatherapy body butters. The product is wrapped in jewel toned, handmade paper. The butters are available in Sandalwood Saffron, Neroli Lemon, Lavender, and Neem Tulsi. The company is owned by mother/daughter team of Cary and Meryl Gabeler from Hastings-on-Hudson, NY.

Powerhouse company K. Hall Designs launched a new line called Barr Co. (http://www.khalldesigns.com/products/barr-co/), a one-scent, new line that utilizes reusable glass, tinware and bags. There are 11 products in the line: Muslin Bag of Sea Salts, Eau de Parfum, Three-Piece Soap Gift Set, Hand Salve, Oatmeal Saddle Soap, Candle Travel Tin, Candle in Glass, Hand Soap, Lotion, Bubble Elixir, and Bath Salt Soak.

Worker B is a company reflective of the popularity of beeswax and honey in personal care products. Last year this company won Best of Show in Extracts for its Worker B Rescue Putty, a balm made with olive oil, beeswax and raw honey sourced from local beekeepers (http://www.worker-b.com). They support the work of local beekeepers, and uses bee products (raw honey, beeswax and propolis) from chemical and anti-biotic free hives. All other ingredients are certified organic and their packaging materials are recyclable.

Marula Oil

One area of opportunity I often suggest is building a brand around a single ingredient. First there was shea butter. Then argan oil. Now there is Marula Oil, a company by The Leakey Collection (http://www.marula.com). Designed by Dr. Ashton Kaidi and Katy Leakey , 100% natural marula oil is made from fruit collected off the ground by hand. The oil is cold-pressed from the kernels and touted as being 16% more powerful than argan oil. They claim that the benefits of marula oil is that it is fast absorbing and high in omega-9 acid at 60-70% concentrations.

The couple lives among the Massai in the Kenyan bush. They wanted to help their neighbors and provide work opportunities without changing their culture. As members of the Fair Trade Federation, they pay fair wages to the artisans, and donate proceeds to over 1,400 Massai women and their families.

Another company with minimalistic packaging is elizabethW  (http://www.elizabethw.com), based in San Francisco, CA. This company introduced a Shea Butter Body Cream featuring shea butter, ginseng, comfrey, ivy, and cucumber as ingredients. The product’s container can be reused or recycled, and the packaging can be recycled. Packaging material is sourced from sustainably managed forests. All packaging is letter pressed in-house with vintage Heidelberg letterpresses. 

Australian-based Apple & Bee (http://www.appleandbeeusa.com/skincare/bath-salts-rejuvenation-blend) introduced its Rejuvenation Bath Salts which contain 100% Australian organic ingredients: sea salt, Epsom Salt (magnesium sulphate), certified organic Australian white clay, certified organic wild geranium grandiflorum (jasmine absolute), essential oil, Mentha Piperita, Limonum (lemon) peel essential oil, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (lemon grass oil).  The salts are made from 100% organic and natural ingredients, these salts dissolve in water, leaving no waste. They are certified by the internationally recognized organization Climate Friendly. The packaging is 100% organic biodegradable cotton with non-toxic dyes. This company offsets its carbon emissions by buying energy back from renewable sources such as wind and solar power. It has established the Bee Foundation to raise money and awareness for the Colony Collapse Disorder, and to research causes for the decline of honey bees around the world.

Show Wrapup

These were the personal care product introductions I found at Extracts and throughout the New York International Gift Show. Just as day one of the show was buzzing with buyers and orders, I expect the remainder to continue to be brisk. Keep an eye on these companies as well as these trends, which I expect to play out an even bigger role throughout the year.